It dries harder and more rigid than Green Stuff, and you can sand it. Great for making sharp effects (primarily blades, in my experience).
My understanding is that it's good for filling pits and other casting defects in resin peices as well.
Can you use it on metal miniatures to work out rough spots?
Because of the properties that Dom C mentioned, I combine Milliput with green stuff to make harder. more rigid blades.It's not the most rigid form of putty I sculpt with, but it's close.
oh, speaking of which, I wouldn't recommend using it to fill joints or sections of a multi-part miniature by itself. Because it's so hard, it doesn't flex with the joint like Green stuff does. That led to sadness for me and my ogre. :(
I often use Miliput and recomend it for its versatility. It comes in different grades and the fine stuff make excellent smooth surfaces. When hard it can be drilled and sanded and is completely water proof. In fact I like it so much I wrote about it on my blog a few months ago http://bigleesminipaintingblog.blogspot.com/2009/06/milliput-putty.html.
And remember you can mix it with green stuff in any proportions you like to change the properties of your putty. The more miliput you use - the more rigid it will be, the more greenstuff - the more flexible. Experiment with it a bit and you'll find the differences.Bear in mind that until it's dry miliput is not waterproof, which is often used to create 'miliput milk' that people tend for preparation of their miniatures for painting. You "paint" your miniature with it a few times before priming and it makes the surface smoother and less porous. And it's important when what you want is smooth paintjob. :)Ah, there are several types of miliput - each of them with different size of 'grain'. I'd suggest the fine or medium ones for most uses.cheers and good luck!-- Mahonhttp://www.ChestOfColors.com